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Information about Soham circa 1900

SOHAM is a town and parish and the head of a county court district, with a station on the Ely and Newmarket branch of the Great Eastern railway, 75 1/2 miles from London, 19 north-east from Cambridge, 8 north-west from Newmarket and 6 south-east from Ely, in the Eastern division of the county, in Newmarket union and petty sessional division, hundred of Staploe, rural deanery of Fordham, archdeaconry of Sudbury and diocese of Ely. The town, which is long and straggling, is lighted with gas, from works at Mere side, the property of the Soham and District Gas Company Limited. " The Lode", a navigable canal, passes through the parish and joins the Ouse at Ely. The church of St. Andrew, erected towards the end of the 12th century, is a cruciform edifice, chiefly i n the Transition-Norman style, with portions and insertions of later date, and consists of chancel, with two chapels on the north side, now used as Vestries, clerestoried nave of four bays, aisles, transepts, north and south porches, and an embattled west ern tower 100 feet in height, with pinnaces, and containing a clock and 10 bells: the chancel is lighted by Decorated windows inserted about the middle of the 14th century: the stained east window is a memorial to the Rev. Henry Tasker, vicar (1832-74), w ho died 17 Jan. 1874; on each side of the window is a small niche, with traces of painting: the north wall retains a fresco of a bishop in the act of benediction, uncovered in 1849, and it would seem that the whole chancel was at one time ornamented in this way: the chancel roof, and the woodwork at the east end, are both of panelled oak; the stalls, 20 in number, are of the same material and with the exception of six on the north side, added in 1880, were fixed in 1849, when the rood screen, a fine example o f modern work, was also erected: on the south side are ancient stone sedilia and a piscina, and there are finely carved altar rails of oak : in the chancel is buried the Rev. D. Harwood, a former vicar, d. 1746, and Mrs. Elizabeth Cawthorne, his sister, d . 1782: the easternmost of the two chapels, built in the 14th century, retains a stone altar at the east end, an aumbry and an irregular oblong tombstone, with incised lettering, as well as some old glass: here also is interred Dr. Cressener, vicar 1678 -1 717: the other chapel is of Late Perpendicular date and has on its east wall a monument to Edward Bernes esq. and Dorothie (Drurye), his wife; she died 18 Feb. 1598; the chapel is inclosed at the west end by a very perfect and elaborately wrought parclo se screen, restored in 1880: each of the transepts has octagonal pinnacles at the angles, and in the south transept is an Early English piscina and a nearly illegible inscription and shields of arms to some member of the Dowman family, and on the east wal l a brass with inscription to John Thornton gent. and Ann (Drurie), his wife; he died Sept. 13, 1598: the north transept contains an altar tomb of the 15th century, and a large marble slab, inscribed, but undated, to Thomas Dockwra and his wife: the south aisle retains an aumbrvy on the south side of the nave is a small brass to Oliver Robins, ob. 12 Aug. 1608, and Katherine (Salisbury) his wife, and at the west end are ten ancient stalls, with misereres, formerly in the chancel: the north porch is Perpen di cular and has a stoup; the south porch, of the 14th century, has a large sundial over the entrance with the motto :-" Ab hoc momento pendent aeterna:" the tower, 25 feet square, is also Perpendicular: the royal arms, placed at the west end of the north ai sle, date from the reign of Queen Anne: the church was completely restored in 1879-80, under the direction of Mr. J. P. St. Aubyn, at a cost of nearly £ 3,000, and was reopened May 18th, 1880, the whole of the galleries being removed, new roofs placed on th e transepts and chapels, and the flooring repaired: parts of the pinnacles were blown down by the gale: of March 24, 1895, but have been restored under the direction of Mr. T. D. Atkinson, architect, of Cambridge. The church now affords 630 sittings: i n the churchyard, near the north porch, is the grave of Mary D'Aye, great-grand-daughter of the Lord Protector Cromwell; she died Nov. 5, 1765, aged 75; on the south side of the chancel is buried Dr. John Ward, who died in 1641, aged 125. The registers are complete from the year 1558. The living is a vicarage, with the chapelry of Barway annexed, joint net yearly value £ 730, including 1 acre of glebe, with residence, in the gift of Pembroke College, Cambridge, and held since 1874 by the Rev. John Cypriari Rust M.A. formerly fellow of that college, the Master and Fellows of which are the rectors.

The Congregational chapel was built about 1837 and will seat 450 persons. In 1880 a school room, with class rooms, was built near the chapel, and there is also a minister's house. The Wesleyan chapel, erected in 1841, affords 200 sittings; the Primitive Methodist chapel, erected in 1869, will seat 300 and has Sunday school and class rooms, erected in 1890; and there is another Primitive Methodist chapel at Soha m Fen, erected in 1872, and seating 164 persons. The Baptist chapel, erected in 1752 and rebuilt in 1837, seats 500; this chapel was the first pastoral charge, in 1775, of the Rev. Andrew Fuller D.D. a celebrated Baptist minister, born at Wicken in 1754, who was educated at the Free school here and died 7 May, 1815. A Cemetery, of 3 3/4 acres, was formed in 1856, at a cost of £2,700; it is under the control of the Parish Council.

A cattle fair is held on the 9th of May and a pleasure fair or feast on the Monday next before the Nativity of St John the Baptist, and continues for three days. There are five clubs, viz. the Loyal Star of Charity Lodge (No. 3,710) of Odd Fellows and t he Loyal Ancient Order of Stepherds, the meetings of both being held at the Red Lion inn; the United Brethren Friendly Society, the meetings of which are held at the White Hart P.H; the Star of Providence Society, whose meetings are held at the Queen's Arms inn; and the Soham Friendly Society which meets at the Primitive Methodist school room. The Liberal and Conservative associations have also each club houses in the town, comprising large rooms for meetings and reading, the latter having a good billiard room and an excellent hall, fitted with a stage for dramatic performances.

The People's Hall, in Station road, contains reading and recreation rooms.

There are six almshouses, granted by Thomas Peachey, in April, 1582, and occupied by poor and aged persons; to these a portion of the fen lands was allotted by the Commissioners of the Bedford Level in lieu of the common rights.

Charities : -In 1674 Dr. Benjamin Laney, Bishop of Ely (1667-75), bequeathed by deed 200a. Ir. 24p. of land, now (1900) producing £245 5s. yearly, in trust for binding apprentices, children of the poor inhab itants of Ely and Soham, paying not more than £20 with each. George Goward esq. by deed, in 1744, left 18 acres of land, called " Soham Cote Piece,\rdblquote £ 6 of the proceeds of which are given away annually in bread to the poor and the remainder assigned for ch aritable purposes to the parish of Lakenheath. Richard Bond, by deed in 1502, gave 22a. 22p. in divers parts of Soham and Fordham, in trust for the repairs of the church and highways; also three tenements near the Free school, as well as 10a. 2r. 16p. i n Soham, for the benefit of the poor. Wright's gift, dating from about 1540, consists of three acres of copyhold land, called " Brook Dam Close,\rdblquote the produce of which is for the repairs of the church. Tyler's gift, dating from 1630, consists of three roods of land, being part of " Brook Dam Close,\rdblquote also for the benefit of the poor. There is also a charity, called " Soham Church Rents,\rdblquote the donor of which is not known; a rent-charge on land near Barway, and the like from an estate called "Lug Hill," amounting together to £ 1,13s. 4d. for the repairs of the church. By a scheme dated 25 Sept. 1896, Bond's poor charity has been united with some smaller charities and made applicable for various purposes for the benefit of the sick poor; and at the same time the charities applicable to the repairs of the church were separated and placed under distinct management. The Town Lot, or Allotment, set out in 1663 as 48 acres, but now let as 46a. 2r. 21p. is for the benefit of the most impotent of the poor of Soham. Mr s. Cawthorne, by deed in 1750, left freehold lands in Soham, 4a. 2r.; 30s. to be paid yearly to the clerk of Barway chapel, the rest to such of the sick poor as are communicants of the Church of England and not in receipt of parish relief. There is also a property called " The Hundred Acres,\rdblquote let in allotments, the profits from which are divided annually amongst the persons entitled to common rights on the various commons.

Cyril Dunn-Gardner esq. of Fordham Abbey, is lord of the manor. The rectory manor is held by the Master and Fellows of Pembroke College, Cambridge. The principal landowners are John Dunn-Gardner esq. of 37 Grosveor Place, London S W; Cyril Dunn-Gardner esq; Thomas Brown Whiting esq; Mrs. Mary Taylor, and Charles Morbey esq of The Moat.

The parish is extensive, being in one direction more than 9 miles in length. The Fen, which covers 8,000 acres, has now, owing to the superior method of drainage, been brought into a high state of cultivation: there was formerly a large mere or lake on t he western side of the town: there are many orchards and gardens, and large quantities of fruit, especially plums, are yearly sent to London, Norwich, Liverpool, Newcastle, Bradford, Leeds and Manchester.

The area is 12,946 acres of land and 53 of water; rateable value, £22,608; and the population in 1881 was 3,980 and in 1891 was 4,138.

Parish Clerk, William Hart.

PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS.

Cemetery, Fordham road, William Hart, Churchgate St clerk; James Cater, curator County Court, Market place, His Hono r William Willis Q.C. judge; Thomas P. Bendall, registrar, Sand street (offices); Charles Frederick Nicole, Ely, high bailiff; William Hart, deputy bailiff & broker, Churchgate street, Soham. The County Court comprise's within its jurisdiction the pari shes of Fordham, Isleham, Soham with Barway & Wicken

For Bankruptcy purposes this court is included in that of Cambridge; Howard William Cox, 5 Petty Cury, Cambridge, official receiver
Certified Bailiff appointed under the " Law of Distress Amendment Act," Alfred William Cockerton, High St.
County Police Station, Clay street, Joshua Hodge, sergeant in charge
Stamp Office, Post office, James Smith

PLACES OF WORSHIP, with times of services.

St. Andrew's Church, Rev. John Cyprian Rust M.A.
vicar; Rev. Ralph Adye Ram M.A. curate; 8 & 11 a.m. & 3 & 6.30 p.m.
Baptist, Rev. William Hughes; 10.30 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Mon. 7.15 p.m.
Congregational, Rev. John Hancock; 11 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; wed. 7 p.m.
Primitive Methodist, Rev. John F. Read; 10.45 a.m. & 2.30 & 6.30 p.m.; wed, Thurs. & Sat. 7.15 p.m.
Primitive Methodist (Fen), Rev. John F. Read; 10.45 a.m. & 2.30 & 6.30 p.m.; wed. 7 p.m.
Wesleyan; 10.30 a.m. & 3 & 6.30 p.m.; Mon. 7.15 p.m.

SCHOOLS.

The Endowed Grammar school for boys, founded in the second year of James II. was re-constructed in 1877, under a new scheme, as a Middle Class school. The junior scholarships offered by the Cambridgeshire County Council have been tenable here since 1896; examinations are also held here in connection with the Science & Ar t Department, & the school is preparatory for the examinations of the Pharmaceutical Society, the Oxford & Cambridge Local Examinations, those of the Incorporated Law Society & the Preliminary Medical examinations. There are seven scholarships, open to bo ys who must have attended one of the local Board Schools for three years. The Boys' School Charity, dating from 1687 & now applied to the Grammar school, consists of 1 16 acres of land in trust for the purpose of apprenticing boys of this parish, & for providing an income for the schoolmaster, the vicar for the time being to be one of the trustees; the same trust includes 3 acres of land, the moneys arising from which are applied to the repairing of "Rose Field Lane;" this charity is now administered under a scheme sanctioned by the Charity Commissioners; the school will hold 60 boys; average attendance, 55; William Henry Mould, headmaster; Frank L. Harrison, science master; Charles C. Smith, art master

A School Board of 7 members was formed March 10, 1871; William Bye, Moat house, Sand street, clerk to the board; E. Horsley, deputy clerk; Jonathan Leonard, Hall street, attendance officer

Board, Town's end (boys), erected in 1875, for 180 children; average attendance, 135; Joseph Farrow, master; George F. Fenton & John W. Day, assistant masters Board (infants), Clay street, erected in 1875, for 150 children, since enlarged; average attendance, 243; Mrs Elizabeth Ranson, mistress

Board (mixed), Soham Fen, erected in 1886, for 50 children; average attendance, 44; Miss W. A. O'Donnell, mistress National (girls), Clay street, erected for 200 children; average attendance, 162; Miss Annie Teague, mistress, Miss Mary Knight & Miss Jane Clark, assist. mistresses

NEWSPAPERS.
Soham Gazette, 6a, Market Hill, Cambridge; Cambridge Independent Press (Hatfield & Co.), publishers; published Friday

Railway Station, George Frederick Vipan, station master

* Kelly's Directory of Cambridgeshire 1900 (London: Kelly's Directories Limited, 1900), pp.185-187.